Status: Active, Ukrainian Catholic

Construction: 1966

830 N. Franklin Street
Philadelphia, PA 19123

http://www.ukrcathedralphiladelphia.net/

The Project makes its first visit to the Northern Liberties section, just north of Center City, to visit the Ukrainian Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. (Hereafter abbreviated UCC.) The UCC actually has a lot in common with Project favorite St. Francis de Sales. Passionate readers will remember that the excellent St. Francis was based on Istanbul’s St. Sophia. Turns out, it’s not the only one. The UCC also claims to be based on the same church.

For the record, here is what St. Sophia, or Hagia Sophia, actually looks like.

Ok, so neither of them gets it exactly right. But the UCC offers us an interesting case study in contrasting architectural approaches. Where de Sales used the dome as a central point of a grand church, the UCC just just built the dome…and stopped. It’s actually not a bad design choice, and it’s a pretty noble attempt. The Cathedral has decent size and there’s some really nice tile work, both inside and out. The gate separating the altar from the nave is also quite cool.

But ultimately their efforts are undone by the spartan architectural trends of the late 20th century. The masterminds just waited too damn long to build the thing. The construction was finished in 1966, at least a good 30 years past the truly ornate building period in these parts. Despite some nice touches the whole effect is rather austere, and there’s really no serious attempt at stained glass; most of the windows are (ack) just plain frosted glass. It just can’t shake its modern roots.

St. Francis de Sales didn’t exactly nail Sophia, either. But they came a heck of a lot closer. Having a 60-year head start will do that.

To be fair, the UCC’s Web site mentions that ”almost no ornamentation is needed, though the completion of the interior embellishments is an ongoing process which will continue over the years.”

The Project can hardly wait.

Size Rating: 8 out of 10

Ornamentation Rating: 6.5 out of 10

Overall Design Rating: 7 out of 10 crosses

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Northern Liberties was reborn in the flame of gentrification that has been slowly been spreading outward from the city. It’s sort of like a reverse North Philadelphia Swath of Destruction. The ills of the past aren’t totally gone, but it’s a much different area than you would have encountered five or even 10 years ago. There was always a Ukrainian concentration around these parts, though, so that probably doesn’t matter too much. But for you visitors, it’ll bring additional peace of mind.

Getting there is pretty easy, too.

Safety Rating: 8.5 out of 10 tire irons

Ukrainians receive communion with a spoon. Yes, a spoon. No, they don’t clean it in between people.

Needless to say, I did not receive communion.

UPDATE: Project reader Ryan Dumont recently sent the Project the following note:

You said "Ukrainians receive communion with a spoon. Yes, a spoon. No, they don't clean it in between people" That statement is correct, but the implication is that the spoon is put into everyone's mouth. Actually, the recipients lean back a bit and open their mouths wide, and the priest will drop the host in. The spoon never makes any contact, so there is no need to clean it off. That would be great if you could note that on your page. I'd hate to have people discouraged from attending because they think communion is unsanitary.

In theory, perhaps it is no more unsanity than having some stranger hand you communion. I was simply going by my own observations, as well as the experiences of some friends knowledgeable with this Rite. Readers are, as always, encouraged to make up their own minds with regard to church matters.