St. Stephen
 

Status: Active, Episcopalian

Founded: 1823
Construction: 1823

19 S. 10th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19105

http://www.ststephensphl.org/

 
Where Is It?


19 S. 10th Street, between Market and Chestnut, in Center City

The Skinny


Do you know where July went? The Project doesn’t. We last remember it being the middle of June, or thereabouts. And suddenly, we wake up and it’s the beginning of August. Talk about a blackout! Our News & Notes postings are the only proof that we haven’t been passed out in a South Philadelphia gutter the whole time.

Anyway, let’s shake out the cobwebs with a trip to Center City’s Episcopalian St. Stephen. Truth be told, I tried to come here once before, back in December. Do you remember the Project’s holiday sabbatical? That was the trip that caused it.

The less we say about it the better, although scheduling mishaps, dead batteries and a borderline case of frostbite pretty much turned me into a raving lunatic. Well, more of one than usual.

This trip turned out to be much more pleasant, albeit it marginally so. St. Stephen is an old, old parish. Founded in 1823, it’s purported to be the first Gothic church in Philadelphia, and the first to have stained glass windows. There’s a lot of history here, and, featuring work by Tiffany, Frank Furness and others, a lot of architectural value.

Maybe it used to, anyway. Not so much. Let’s break it down like this:

The Good: A nice sanctuary, highlighted by a cool stained-glass window / stone-frame reredos, and a neat tile rendering of the last supper. There’s also an assortment of cool little standalone decorations, such as the baptismal font in the back right-hand corner of the church and an ornate marble angle statue in one of the side alcoves.

The Weird: A cleaving balcony and flat roof, which you never see in gothic architecture. Oh, and the church isn’t completely non-cruciform, since there’s a transept on the left-hand side. Huh?

The Just Plain Bad: Paging Dr. Tabula Rasa. Whatever value St. Stephen’s once had, its caretakers have gunked it up by embracing new-age nonsense. The pews have been removed, and a motley assortment of chairs, stands and tables now lay haphazardly around the nave. Oh, and there’s a reflecting pool, too. Pardon my language, but seriously, WTF?

The following two pictures give an idea of what the interior looked like once upon a time. The first is from 1860, the second from 1917.

 


Pictures Courtesy St. Stephen

I don’t have current interior shots (more on that below), but trust me, it looks little like this now. In fact, the 1860 shot showcases a completely different sanctuary than the one they currently have. Tabula Rasa, indeed.

The Project hates new-age trends more than anything, and to see a piece of architectural history ruined by it, well, let’s just say it gets our blood a-boiling. Not that St. Stephen was necessarily the prettiest church in the world—the exterior is proof of that—but there’s great value in respecting what your forbearers built. Running a parish is like accepting a covenant to respect and protect what has been entrusted to you. Doing crap like this doesn’t do them, or you, for that matter, any credit.

Oh, and because of the redesign, the best part that still remains, the sanctuary, isn’t even used. Sigh.

Some neat stuff, but it doesn’t amount to much anymore. Thanks, guys.

Size Rating: 7.5 out of 10

Ornamentation Rating: 5 out of 10

Overall Design Rating: 6 out of 10 crosses



How's It Doing?


Pitiful. At least it seems that way—only 10 people attended mass, and one of them was the cantor, who strangely sits among the audience, rather than up front leading. Curiouser and curiouser.

One parishioner told me that the crowd is usually larger. She didn’t specify exactly how much larger, but it would have to be significantly so to make think this parish is the epitome of health. Given that only fifty chairs are set up, I doubt that’s the case.

St. Stephen strikes a very shrill bell for ecclesiastical casualty. If super-fancy St. Clement and their impressive high mass seek to embody pomp and circumstance, St. Stephen seems to feel that sweatpants are a fine option.

The mass begins with no procession, but instead with chanting from the audience. The pastor sits virtually among the crowd, with no place of honor or central importance. He doesn’t even have a true altar anymore, and the mass lacks any real sense of power or majesty. I’m not suggesting that all masses need be of the St. Clement variety, but there should at least be a little panache to it. The whole thing is conducted with a laid-back lacksadaisy that doesn’t do credit to the purpose of the service.

What the place lacks in power it makes up for in friendliness. Not Love-O-Meter worthy, but everyone walks around and makes sure to greet everyone else. No hugs and kisses, but still commendable.

What isn’t commendable, though, is their attitude toward photography. The Project was admonished to not take pictures after the mass, as is our customary practice. It seems that St. Stephen some years ago instituted a policy of not allowing photography before or after services, since tourists would apparently intrude in the middle of mass and start snapping photos.

It’s not an unreasonable practice, but come on, there are exceptions to be made. Especially considering that:

a) I worshipped respectfully with them and honored all of their practices, showing, as always, the utmost humility;
b) They just finished celebrating a mass where all of nine people showed up;
c) Per the pastor himself, no one has actually wanted to pictures of the place for the past 10 years.

(Really, eh? Might that be around the time you people messed it up with your reflecting pools? Hmmm.)

Regardless, it’s a rarity, since we’ve seen 90-some churches, and the Project has never, ever been rebuked for photography. Granted, they didn’t take my camera and step on it, but it’s still disconcerting, and it made all of their other attempts at friendship incredibly irksome. And telling me to make an appointment during the week? Get over yourselves.

Like most people I actually work during the week, so no, I won’t be making an appointment. You get big black mark in the Project’s gradebook.

Hell hath no fury like a Project scorned.

Emergency Rating: Bug Off

Travel Tidbits


It’s smack dab in the middle of town, and is only two blocks or so from Market East Station, so SEPTA is your best bet. Drive and park at your own peril. As for the neighborhood, Market East is a weird confluence of the cheap and crass, and the social services that call it home ensure that some derelicts will be wondering around. They’re pretty much harmless, but don’t be surprised if you spy a bunch of druggies talking to themselves.

Oh, and remember: if you want to take pictures, don’t. They’ll give you a slap on the wrist. Honestly, just look at the two pictures above. They’re better than what’s there now, anyway.

Safety Rating: 9 out of 10 tire irons



Interesting Note


St. Stephen’s is also home to the Lantern Theater Company, who perform in one of the parish’s adjacent buildings.

Back before the Project existed, I attended a rather unique and enjoyable variation of the “Night Before Christmas” there. I should have just stopped there and gone out on a high note. Ba-zing!


The Final Word


The Project spits on your shoes.


 


© 2009 Philadelphia Church Project