St. Clement
 

Status: Active, Episcopalian

Founded: 1855
Construction: 1858

20th & Appletree Streets
Philadelphia, PA 19103

http://www.s-clements.org

 
Where Is It?


20th & Appletree Streets, in Center City West

The Skinny


The Project goes downtown yet again! This time we visit the Episcopalian parish of St. Clement, which for 150 years has ministered to Center City. And, I suspect, to museum goers who wander in lost from the Parkway.

St. Clement’s design is indicative of many protestant churches. You see, it…wait, you know what? There’s a better way to do this.

Church Project Theorem #21: How the $#%@ do I get in here?

Ah, there we go. How the $#%@ do I get in here? refers to the tendency of Protestant churches to have off-kilter layouts. Roman Catholic churches—at least the ones worth seeing—are designed fairly simply. The façade of the building always faces front, and is the most prominent and most ornate part of the exterior. It’s designed so there’s no mistaking the fact that THAT is where you are supposed to enter. Ok, fine, most of them have side doors, too. But my point is that, at the very least, you have a clear idea of where you’re supposed to go.

Protestant churches, by contrast, tend to utilize strange constructions, with multiple sides and crazy angles. There’s not always a focal entry point, and it’s not always easy to tell where to go. That’s not necessarily a knock against Protestant architecture. They just like to make entering and exiting a little interesting.

That’s the striking thing about St. Clement. The church is at 20th & Appletree; in a Catholic setup, the façade would face outward to 20th street. Instead, Clement is done almost in reverse. The rear of the church faces outward, with the apse taking the central position and a spire positioned awkwardly next to it. In case you’re wondering where the façade actually is…don’t. There isn’t one. What would be the façade butts up against another building, so the main entrance is actually placed diagonally near the start of the nave. Once you go in you have to make two right turns to enter the church.

Funky setup aside, Clement is a decent if unspectacular entry. The church has some nice things going for it. The reddish / brown stone construction is cool, and the sanctuary and altars are pretty ornate. Mostly, though, the interior is done in a bland white plaster with (ack!) wooden beams. What’s interesting is that the apse isn’t done in plaster, but instead just stays with the reddish / brown stone. I actually like that look better. It’s very medieval, if you will, and the design could have been stunning if the church kept it throughout. Plaster is just really difficult to pull off unless it’s heavily ornamented.

Otherwise, there’s not much worth writing home about. Could it be a case of Old v. Older Churches? Perhaps, as the building is 150 years old. Of course, St. Augustine is even older, and that turned out fairly well. I think it’s just a misplaced reliance in white plaster and dark wooden ceiling beams. That’s never a combination for success.

Still, it’s worth seeing. There are some neat touches, and there’s a lot of history here. Just don’t expect to be blown away architecturally.

Size Rating: 7.5 out of 10

Ornamentation Rating: 6.5 out of 10

Overall Design Rating: 7 out of 10 crosses

How's It Doing?



If the attendance at the 11:00 a.m. High Mass is any indication, not very well. The church had a spartan crowd, and most of the seats were empty. Of course, while 11:00 is usually the “sweet spot” of mass attendance, it is High Mass, which in the Project’s opinion is an acquired taste. Oh, it’s beautifully done. But I don’t see the need to do it on a weekly basis, and it seems that most of the other parishioners don’t, either.

I have no concrete numbers, but I get the hunch this is a pretty healthy parish. St. Clement boasts an active social agenda and volunteer core, as you can see for yourself on their ultra-slick Web site. Really, it’s probably the best church site I’ve seen yet. Would a struggling parish have the resources to pull this off?

I don’t think so.

Emergency Rating: Don’t worry—be happy!

Travel Tidbits


Don’t let the “West” moniker fool you. It’s still Center City, which means unless you can walk or take public transportation, you’re in for some suffering. The church advertises that they allow parking in the Horticultural Association lot across the street. I, however, found no such spaces, so be prepared to circle, search and beg for mercy.

(For the Project, the travel is often as much a religious experience as the actual mass.)

Oh, but the area itself is fantastic, as you’d expect from the museum district.

Important note for photographers: if you’re looking to take pictures, do not do it after High Mass. They use a lot of incense, which hangs in the air and screws with your images. Half of mine didn’t come out, and the ones that did look pretty funky. Attend a different service or just take a tour.

Safety Rating: 9.5 out of 10 tire irons

Interesting Note


St. Clement doesn’t have kneelers! Instead, there are pads hanging on the back of the pews, which you can take off and use for your kneeling purposes. Or, if you’re truly penitent, you can kneel on the wooden floor without them.

I myself didn’t use them, because the Project always has a lot of atoning to do.


The Final Word


Interesting to see, but pretty easy to forget.

 


© 2008 Philadelphia Church Project